Paradise found: Sailing through Indonesia’s Raja Ampat archipelago

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Descriptions such as breathtaking, picture-postcard, earthly paradise and awe-inspiring are so overused in travel writing, they are almost meaningless. In truth, they should be saved for places like Raja Ampat, an archipelago of some 1,500 turquoise-rimmed islands scattered throughout the crystal clear waters of Indonesia’s far-flung West Papua. One of the world’s last remaining tropical paradises, its jungle-filled islands, coral-fringed...

Descriptions such as breathtaking, picture-postcard, earthly paradise and awe-inspiring are so overused in travel writing, they are almost meaningless. In truth, they should be saved for places like Raja Ampat, an archipelago of some 1,500 turquoise-rimmed islands scattered throughout the crystal clear waters of Indonesia’s far-flung West Papua.

I’m exploring this incredible place like most visitors do, on a liveaboard sailing boat, Captain Jack Sparrow-style. The 12-berth, 32-metre Nataraja is a traditional phinisi sailing boat, hand-built from ironwood by Buginese craftsmen on the Indonesian island of Sulawesi. As we float around the pylons of a village pier, huge schools of fish shape-shift in a kaleidoscope of patterns around us in wondrous synchronicity. Mangrove explorations reveal gardens of hard and soft coral just below the surface of the water, a combination of ecosystems rarely seen elsewhere.

After the Nataraja puts down anchor, three of us jump in a kayak to explore barnacled island overhangs worn away by tidal waves. The water is so clear we can see a white sandy bottom pockmarked with crab holes and it is glaringly bright in the midday sun. Strung along the shore amid peach-coloured shells and smooth white driftwood is the usual detritus: drink bottles, straws, petrol containers, single-use cups, fishing nets, and even toothbrushes. The rubbish is buried in the sand and caught in the trees, and is part of the scenery.

 

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