When André Magalhães opened Taberna da Rua das Flores in central Lisbon in 2012, the chef had to use a camping stove to grill liver and cook the other traditional Portuguese dishes he served. Within weeks, there were queues down the street.
The 24-seat restaurant quickly came to symbolise the movimento taberneiro, an effort by a wave of primarily young chefs who wanted to safeguard Portugal’s classic tabernas against the cultural tsunami transforming the city ...
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