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But that’s Habitas AlUla for you: a resort earning a reputation as an oasis of art, beauty and creative freedom for those open to discovering its charms in this unlikely destination. Its parent brand started in the most liberal of places—creating camps for Burning Man—and is planning five new properties throughout Saudi Arabia, in addition to two existing ones, backed by 1.5 billion riyals from the kingdom.
Considerations include the 2018 assassination of Saudi journalist Jamal Khashoggi; that any sex outside of marriage faces a possible maximum penalty of death, though as of 2019, unmarried foreign couples can share a hotel room; and a lack of clarity when it comes to the safety and treatment of LGBTQ people.
The wood-lined private villas at Habitas cost from $800 to $1,200 per night; Airstream trailer caravans, located a brief car ride away, start at $410. For women, bringing a headscarf is smart—not only out of respect for local mores, but also to protect your hair and skin from the intense elements. Except for perhaps the Al Tajdid Al Arabi exfoliation and chakra balancing I’d booked in the wellness center with Kiki—a holistic-care specialist from Rwanda—from a Western perspective, reports of Habitas AlUla as Saudi Arabia’s Burning Man are exaggerated.