Wheel Adventures Part Three: Vietnam: In which the author cycles the inland version of Ha Long Bay, tires of temples, and discovers KFC is doing it wrong.
10th Century Capital Powered by a meal of delicious goat we cycle through Hoa Lu, the capital of Vietnam in the 10th and 11th centuries. It was founded by local warlord Đinh Bộ Lĩnh in 968 AD, following years of civil war and a violent secessionist movement against China’s Southern Han Dynasty. Ninh Binh Ninh Binh is slowly growing into a tourist town, but today it is still in that awkward teenager stage of not fully exploiting its natural environment for short term profit. For example, there is plenty of affordable accommodation. Also, the streets are relatively clean and quiet, lined with shops that cater to normal people doing normal things, rather than idiot tourists drinking too much and singing karaoke and spreading syphilis.
After a week in the bike saddle, my legs and bum think this is a spectacularly good idea. All my other bits are waiting to see a) just how crappy/dangerous/full of snakes the train is; and b) have any Extinction Rebellion loonies blockaded the tracks on behalf of things they don’t understand? There are four options for the 12-hour overnight train ride to Hue: hard seat , soft seat , hard berth and soft berth . With so many options, your pretty little head is probably spinning! If you don’t pick the right one, it will be; this is not a slick, smooth, high-speed bullet train.
The soft berth option is for the ooh-la-la crowd. It sleeps just four people, each of whom gets his very own soft bench seat approximately two-and-a-half inches shorter than your height, no matter what that is.
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